Before I leave this project in the dust, I want to list sources we used to make our shoe project happen so that anyone else making the same endeavor has this list to start with.
#1 on any list about Roman shoes should be Dr. Carol van Driel Murray's writings. Her many articles about ancient leather and thereby shoes made this project possible. Fascinating and specific, it's an opus that anyone else can only dream of achieving. So grateful to her for all the knowledge she has imparted, I emailed her to thank her in February. She replied that our project had made her day...and sent me more articles. Even though she's now officially retired, she retains
a working Webpage with linked articles that you can access for free. I know I say this a lot to the point of sounding like a broken record, but if you admire the work of a particular professional, reach out. They love to talk about their work and to know that it's being used.
The place to start with van Driel Murray's work is her chapter called "Footwear in the North-Western Provinces of the Roman Empire," in
Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz. His drawings of Roman shoes really explained so much. Her description of shoe construction in this chapter was very detailed and helpful. (At $75, this book is expensive, but totally worth it.)
Although I read a LOT by van Driel Murray before we started this project, the most interesting details I learned were:
1. The Romans invented vegetable-tanned leather. Before they arrived, leather as we know it today (tanned to preserve it) did not exist (and it was not found in the archaeological record). When they left northern Europe, the knowledge and technology of the process seemed to have gone with them until it appeared later in history.
2. Before the Romans, shoes were quiet. I had never considered this aspect of shoes before, and it was a bit of a revelation. Roman soldiers wore nailed shoes that made a lot of noise when walking - this style of shoe spread to other non-military shoe-wearers because of their durability, but they got interested due to the noise they made, kind of like an annoying advertisement. The study of soldiers and shoes goes hand and hand.
To learn more about the process of tanning leather, read her Chapter 19 in
Oleson's The Oxford Handbook of Engineering and Technology in the Classical World (my RoTech Bible), "Tanning and Leather." An article I wanted to read but didn't get to was "Are we missing something? The elusive tanneries of the Roman period." In R. Thomson and Q. Mould (eds) Leather Tanneries: The archaeological evidence, 69–83. London, Archetype. You know how sometimes when you're studying something, your eyes are opened to a new world of joy...or as in this case, horror? That was my experience as I learned about the tanning process. Unfortunately, in some parts of the world, this process remains relatively unchanged from ancient times. This gruesome chemical process takes its toll on the lives of its workers.
In case you don't believe me about van Driel Murray's work, check out
this bibliography of it. Yes, someone wrote an article about all her articles and chapters!
Next on the list of SUPER HELPFUL Roman shoe scholars is
Dr. Beth Greene. A classical archaeologist at the Western University of Ontario, she has been a true inspiration for this project. Back in December of 2021, I watched an
"Archaeology Abridged" lecture by her sponsored by the Archaeological Institute of America in which she spoke about the incredible archaeological finds at Vindolanda on Hadrian's Wall. I was absolutely TAKEN by this lecture. I mean, I knew about Vindolanda, but I was just not aware of its significance and its uniqueness. I subsequently joined in again for
another lecture (this one sponsored by the Vindolanda Trust) specifically on the leather shoes found at Vindolanda. I also listened to numerous podcast interviews with Dr. Greene, and I started to amass the knowledge needed to begin the Roman Shoe Project.
A couple of years later, I applied for and secured a teacher travel scholarship in which I designed my own tour of Roman Britain. Of course, I included Vindolanda, and it was there that by the most brilliant stroke of luck, I spotted Dr. Greene at the open-for-public-viewing archaeological pit at the site. She had literally just pulled the sole of a Roman leather shoe out of the actual ground!!! I introduced myself and told her about my planned project, and she actually got excited - she said that she and her research assistant, Cheyenne Eversole-Spina, were developing lessons on Roman shoes that my students and I might be able to help with. I was thrilled!
Even though the lessons never really got finished (Cheyenne got super busy with her wedding and finishing her dissertation), Dr. Greene was extremely kind to speak to my students not once but THREE times. In addition, when I showed up to a webinar about her new book (with Barbara Birley)
50 Objects from Vindolanda, they sent me an advance signed copy with a lovely note inside: "Thanks for loving the Romans."
Dr. Greene's work was also very helpful:
1. She is the principal investigator at the
Vindolanda Leather Project - she works at Vindolanda nearly every summer and is currently working on a book on Roman leather shoes.
2. The VLP contains
this wonderful bibliography on Roman leather shoes.
3.
This video of Dr. Greene explaining the different types of Roman shoes gave my students a solid overview.
4. Her article in
Shoes, Slippers, and Sandals: Feet and Footwear in Classical Antiquity - "Metal Fittings on the Vindolanda Shoes: Footwear and Evidence for Podiatric Knowledge in the Roman World" hinted at an aspect of footwear that my students showed great interest in.In addition to the people with knowledge of ancient shoes, I have to thank the shoe-maker with the practical know-how. I was introduced to Martin Moser, a historical shoe-maker and leather craftsman, on a Facebook group dedicated to historical re-enactment. His Website
Res Rarae ("rare things" in Latin) is like looking through a treasure trove! I reached out to him via email, and he got back to me every single time. He was the one who suggested the simple carbatina for my students to recreate. I asked him countless questions about tools, patterns, leather, etc., and he never failed to share his knowledge with me with the greatest generosity. I even asked him to Zoom visit us, but he was nervous about his English speaking skills (he is Dutch). What a kind soul! I hope I get to meet him one day and thank him in person.
You might be wondering, "Nathalie, did you call any shoe craftsmen in Baton Rouge?" And the answer is YES, I did, because I figured they would be able to help us, even though we were working on ancient stuff. But none of them ever replied to me.
As you can probably tell, I needed a LOT of help on this project. This project was a lot of fun, but it also caused me some stress. I was SO worried about actually getting our shoes made, but as with all our projects, we got it done. Stretching our brains can cause some stress, but in the end, our brains expand. My only regret with this project is that I didn't make MY OWN SELF a pair of Roman leather shoes, y'all!! I can't even believe it. I got so busy helping the students (in fact, there are exactly three pairs of shoes I will finish sewing for three kids who were sick during sewing time and still don't have their shoes)...that I didn't take care of my own two feet. Sigh...one day. Happy trails, Roman Shoe Project!